essay

 

Tim Macartney-Snape

A WTM Founding Director and Patron

 

Extended profile

Best known as the only person ever to climb Mount Everest’s entire 8,874 metres from sea to summit, Tim reached the peak on 11 May 1990. Although he began the three month expedition with a small film crew on the shores of the Bay of Bengal, he climbed alone from Base Campwithout the assistance of sherpas, fellow climbers or bottled oxygen. The documentary of this achievement, Everest: Sea to Summit, won prizes in seven countries for the best mountain film.

This feat followed twelve years of successful Himalayan ascents on ten major expeditions, all of which were achieved without bottled oxygen in a lightweight style and, in most cases, up previously unclimbed routes.

In 1984, Australian climbing was put on the international map when Tim and a fellow climber reached the summit of Mount Everest by forging a new route up the North Face. The ascentfilmed by Timwas also shown to world-wide television audiences.

In 1986, as part of a small US/Australian team, Tim climbed a new route on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan. The documentary of this climb was also shown to audiences around the world. In addition to his extensive Himalayan experience, Tim has climbed throughout Australia, Africa and South America.

Tim is passionate about biology and the value of the outdoor experience in developing the individual, regularly introducing groups of novices to climbing.

Educated at Geelong Grammar School, Tim is a trained biologist with a Bachelor of Science from the Australian National University (ANU). It was while he was at ANU that Tim’s passion for mountaineering developed, becoming the only summiteer on the university’s 1978 Dunagiri expedition in the Indian Himalaya and the first Australian to do so. Tim is also a qualified outdoor instructor and the author of three books: Mountain Adventurer 1992, Everest: From Sea to Summit 1992, and Being Outside 1993.

In 1987 Tim was awarded an Order of Australia medal (OAM) for his achievements in mountaineering, and in 1993 was made a Member in the Order of Australia (AM) for services to mountaineering and international relations.

Tim spent the first twelve years of his life in Tanzania, where he was born in 1956 to an Australian father and British mother (his father had gone there as a prospector and pioneer farmer in 1927). Tim occasionally returns to East Africa where he is active in developing walking expeditions in wildlife parks and reserves.

Tim was introduced to the understanding of the human condition in 1987 by Jeremy and became one of the Founding Directors of the WTM in 1990, and a Patron of the WTM in 2009. Tim is also a director of an outdoor equipment business, Sea to Summit, and a consultant to World Expeditions, one of the world’s leading travel adventure companies.

When he is not travelling the wilds of the Himalaya or Africa, Tim lives in the country, about 100 km south-west of Sydney, with his partner, Stacy Rodger.